Akpe ka ka ka

So it's official. I am no longer in Africa- I have departed Accra and Ghana with a heavy heart and longing to return. It's a terribly long journey. I am feeling like if I can't be in Hohoe, I just want to be in Skippack. I am looking forward to a few modern conveniences- a HOT shower, a flushing toilet- a washing machine- air conditioning. My family and Gracie. I can't wait to give out my gifts and show every one my pictures.

HOWEVER- There is a little caveat. I was allowing the children at the orphanage to take pictures with my camera and the next think I know three weeks of pictures where deleted- erased- gone- nothing but a memory in my head. My heart sank. I cried. Hard. I have pictures from the first week and a half and then the rest are gone. I know a lot of the pictures I can get from my friends who were here with me but there are still many when it was just me who had their camera with them. Or our fabulous adventure up Mountain Paradise. The Wli Falls with the kids from the Orphanage. It's now all just a memory that belongs in my head. Xzibit and Attraction took me back up to Wli Waterfalls so I could get at least those pictures again- and it was an excuse to go back to the falls.

We bought two loaves of bread (which is much sweeter than our bread) and two boxes of juice and packets of whiskey (Whiskey comes in these packets that looks like large ketchup packets- but with whiskey in them). Actually you can get a 'Afri-pak' which is three packets in one box -gin-whiskey-vodka. You know you've hit an all time low when you start drinking booze out of plastic bags! BUT it's the norm here. Everything is eaten/drank out of plastic bags- even water.

I do digress.

So juice- whiskey- and bread was our picnic for the hike back up to the falls.
Good news is I was brave enough this time to go completely underneath the
Falls. No I did not die. I'm pretty sure I steered clear of all parasites- especially the brain eating kind. And I got to pick from Cacao and eat them right off the tree. The seeds themselves are VERY bitter but the sugary white meat substance around the seeds are yummy. And then there are these other berries that are amazing that I picked in the jungle and ate. (I am going to spell there name phonetically because there is no way I know how to write it in Ewe. Basically it sounds like you are chewing on your tongue). They are called angya berries. They are small like blueberries but they grow in bunches like grapes do. They are small and pink and you pop out the seed in the middle and suck on it. It is sooo sweet and locals use it to sweeten their coffee and tea and use it in their cooking because sugar cane is so expensive.


This past Friday was very hard on me. I had to say goodbye to the children at the Orphanage. And the worse part is they sing to you and come up and hug you and present you with a certificate of appreciation. The teacher said some beautiful things about me. Then the children started to sing 'Lean On Me'. Well that was the trigger. Big 'Mansa' crocodile tears came streaming out of my face. Then they began to one by one come up and hug me and tell me 'thank you' personally. Well the tears came even harder. My pictures from that day are just superb of me. Blotchy red face- no makeup left to speak of. Little Mansa and Yayra and Olivia, Cynthia, Abraham and Daniel, Papaa and Sara- All the children in my class gave me hugs as if I was Santa Claus and just gave them everything they wanted. Promise drummed for me at my request. I did take video it. It fills my heart with such joy to see him play. I talked to Sister Lindy about him and found out more information about his background, which only makes me love him even more. At the very end, when my van showed up to take me away from the Orphanage for the last time Promise threw his arms around me. He told me he loved me and that he was so happy that I was in his life. Just when I thought I had no more tears- the water works came. That sobbing where you have to gasp to catch your breath. When I went to let go of him- he did not let go of me. (You are not supposed to- but) Being who I am, I gave him a million kisses and hugs and made him promise me to be safe and to take care of himself as well as look out for the younger kids. Tears weld up in his eyes and he threw himself around my waist again. Dela had to lay on the horn of the van to make me let go of him. I got into the van- barely- and when I looked back, the kids were all standing against the fence waving and there was Promise, running after the van, waving good-bye.
Whooh.

Friday night was amazing though. The newbies took me out for my 'Goodbye Party' which always go too fast and everyone danced like no one watches and drinks palm wine to the point you're slipping in the mud trying to find your way back to home base. Tanoa Gardens to Malezia to Ghana 50. And I didn't have to pay for one drink!! The Irish guys came and Carl played his guitar- Xzibit and Jahwill were my dates for the evening and Drew (the newbie from Scotland with the thick accent who is hard to understand sober) had one too many Clubs and Stars (both beers- there one bottle of beer is two of ours. Our beer is considered a mini). So Drew drinks a few with the Irish guys and the next thing you know he's standing in the middle of a bar in Ghana- one of maybe 10 other yevus ('yay-vu' means white person) in the whole bar and starts the speech from Braveheart. A slurred 'boozed' Scot in floral red shorts and riding boots with flaming red hair reciting Braveheart while the Irishmen and Frenchmen encouraged him on. Classic.
The only other thing I could have asked for was my group who came with me to be there. But we had our fun while they were there.

Saturday, John- our cook- who continually has asked me to marry him- taught me how to make Banku with Okra soup and Fufu with Fish soup. I went to the market and bought cassava and corn dough- I hope it stays and I can get the rest of the ingredients at home. I can't wait to make Banku at home. The whole staff and I shared it for lunch and they said I did an excellent job!

The rest of the weekend I hung out with Xzibit and Jahwill. They really took such great care of me. My big brothers in town. The people in Ghana will often call their cousins or friends brothers and sisters. So you really never know the exact relation to each other. But I got to meet Xzibit's real brothers and sister and then his cousins from Accra. They were in this weekend so we all went out for dinner. His one cousin 'Brother Peter' is the head of the Feley Family. He is the one who speaks for the family and makes all major decisions.

I had the most interesting conversation with him. He explained that he was traveling through Liberia when the war broke out and he told me of his horrifying ordeals he had to go through to escape with his life. It took him 3 months to cross into Cote de Ivory and out of the 60+ people he started out with only 19 made it back into Ghana. I had become so comfortable in Hohoe- very little crime. Maybe a few chickens stolen here or there but everyone in town was peaceful and happy to just be alive. I had not thought about how just a few hundred miles away genocide and crimes against humanity are still going on. It was a reality check that I needed. Ghanaians are very proud of their history. There are signs all over for 50 years of peace and making progress in Africa.
I apparently impressed Brother Peter very much. Xzibit said that he couldn't stop talking about me. He called me Sister or Sister Tara all night. I love it. We talked about the whole sister/brother thing and he explained it's because we really are all apart of one global family. We should treat each other like family- talk about conflicts rather than act violently or speak ill about each other. It's an interesting concept and it makes sense. I too began to call everyone brother and sister. And along with my Ewe name Delali-Abena (shortened to Dela) I truly feel like an older southern black woman.

So this is what I thought about while on the airplane. Here I sit at the end of my journey $300 poorer but so much richer in spirit, experience and love. Who ever could have guessed that in 5 short weeks that I could fall in love (a few times), find friends for life and be welcomes into a community and culture completely foreign to me. The things that I have experienced, the places I've seen and the people that I have met are colorful caricatures, amazing stories and surreal illustrations in my book of life. These past weeks have flown by and left me wanting more and simultaneously make me realize how fortunate I am and to appreciate the simple things in life. Those little moments with friends, food in your belly, breath in your lungs, your ability to dance and most importantly the people who love you.
The expression of love has become so apparent since I have been here. The human need of love- the physical and spiritual need to know and to feel love. The children at the orphanage have taught me in particular the appreciation of the little gifts in life. How a hug and a kiss can turn a whole day around. To have some one who cares for you - not because they have to - but because you have chosen to be apart of each others lives. I don't know what magic there is when humans make physical contact with each other. Holding hands, a warm embrace, a kiss, a pat on the shoulder. They are gifts between friends- unspoken bonds that are strengthened. It is incredible to see how it crosses cultures and continents. My last day at the orphanage- the children were instructed to dance and sing as much as they could for their morning assembly. Some of the children were less than enthusiastic about it and so the teacher told this story: 'Down the road at the hospital, sickly people are laying in their hospital beds wishing they could get up and walk- let alone dance. If you pass by the graveyard during a full moon you can hear the dead say 'We were like you once.' And when you pass by it again they will say 'One day you will be like us!' So while you still can- dance and sing and use your legs because you still can. You have your health and you have a song in your heart!' And the kids listened. They used their whole bodies and danced as if they would lose the use of the bodies if they ever stopped. Even my little ones danced and smiled.

It will take time to adjust back into the American way of doing things. Rush rush. get it done. Work, errands, practice, groceries, exhaustion, then bed. I am really going to try to bring the things I have come to learn and enjoy about the Ghanaian culture back with me.
Even here in London at the Heathrow airport- the Internet works faster. It doesn't take 15 min to log on to your email address. I forgot how fast the Internet is supposed to work. And business men and woman are talking on their cell phones, faxing documents, looking at the stocks and trying not to miss their connecting flights. Already I am a little annoyed with them- but that is my burden. I've only been away for 5 1/2 weeks and I feel that my personal culture has shifted. I am sure it will shift back just as easily as it did while I was in Ghana.
As I read this is sounds as if I am speaking ill of the American culture. I don't mean for it to sound like that at all. Believe me- I have found major problems with the Ghanaian culture too- but I just want to bring back and fix my personal culture at home. Spending 5 weeks abroad has defiantly made me realize how I am so fortunate to live in the culture and society and country that I do.

That being said: I have not lost my Wanderlust. I will return their one day.
There are many points in my trip, however, that I thought to myself, 'Self- what the hell made you think that you could go to Africa alone for five weeks?? How did you get here. Holy cow- I'm in Africa!!'

OH and the grand total for marriage proposals comes to ten. TEN! Although really only half of those were truly heartfelt. 5 of them came from Ameobos looking for a Yevu to marry.

Akpe ka ka ka ka ka to everyone who welcomed me in Ghana with open hearts and open arms. You will never be forgotten. You have taught me so much more than I ever could have taught you. Much love.


And thank you to everyone back at home for the comments and love. I look forward to reading them just as much as you look for new posts from me.

Haley and Lori- I could not get any bowfruit to bring home. It was Sunday when I left and everyone goes to Church all weekend. :( I'll see if I can get a recipe for them. But drinks and story time is a must. My friends in town made me some cd's with local music on them- DANCE PARTY. I can teach you how to high life dance. Prepare to laugh.

Christie: I have a few children in mind that I have wanted to bring home. Let me know the specifics of what you are looking for and I can get your a beautiful Ghanaian child who needs a loving family and home.

Jennifer: No, I don't want to come home yet. Yes my mother will probibly give it to you for saying that- but the truth is I am out of money and I have to come back to reality for a time being. Plus I miss the kids at home too.

Don and John: This all wouldn't have been possible with out you. Akpe ka ka ka (which means thank you soooooooooo much. I can't wait to share my adventure in person with you. And I will show you how to make banku with okra soup! And no recipes for grasscutter whop slop. Apparently they don't know that whop slop is!!



BE HOME SOON!