Wednesday, August 26, 2009

After Thoughts

I definitely have been struggling being home. I think there are many reasons why. The easiest one to think of is I miss my friends I made there. I was never lonely and everyone got along well together. I miss the kids at the orphanage. I miss the people in town. All the little children running after us yelling "Yevu! Yevu!" and waving to us. I miss the smiling faces and the warm greetings. I miss the slowed down pace of life. When some one greets you, how they generally are concerned with how you are doing. I miss the love I found and felt while in Hohoe.

I have this sense that I just abandoned everything that I worked so hard for over there. I just got on a plane and went home. There is a strange feeling as if some how that world really doesn't exist while I am in the States. It was a Disney ride, a side show attraction during "It's A Small World After All". It almost feels like I read someone else's great novel about their trip to Africa.

I wanted to go on this trip because the truth is I wanted to run away. I was feeling a little "stuck". Not that my life was bad by any means, but I just didn't feel like I was going down the path that my destiny called for. I was treading water and not making much progress.

Spending 5 weeks in Hohoe was so much more than I ever planned for. I knew I would come back a changed person, but never could I have imagined HOW changed I would be and in what ways. I have changed. My view on the world has changed. What I ultimately want out of life has changed. How I view myself, how I view my friends, it's all changed. Katie and I were catching up after I had gotten back. I explained most of this to her and she said something that I thought was very observant and poignant, "When you went to Africa, you made yourself 100% vulnerable." She was so right. For all my life I have always had this wall up around my heart. Just with in the past few years, I have been working hard on breaking down those walls and allowing people in closer than just an arms length. When I went to Ghana, I told myself that this was a new chapter, no one knew me or my past. No one was going to have any preconceived notions about me. I was going to be as true to myself as I possibly could be. And I was. And BECAUSE I was being true to myself and being 100% vulnerable, I was able to experience the most amazing things. Namely: people who loved me for being myself. And in return I was able to enjoy what they brought to the table. It was a win-win.

Then the moment I stepped back onto US soil I realized something: I changed. My life, however, did NOT. I took a hiatus from life. But all of those problems that I had with it did not go away magically. Nor did the day to day stress of work, school, tuition, car payments. It all was waiting for me when I returned.

It has been so much more difficult readjusting to the American lifestyle than it was incorporating into the "Ghana Time" lifestyle. I was so used to running around, going here, making sure I was on time there (okay as close to on time as possible), work, school, school, work, make dinner, run Jamie to somewhere, sleep, do it all over again. If I wasn't busy, I was making lists of things to do in my head. Then while in Hohoe, I learned to slow down. Enjoy the 10 min walk it takes you to get to the Internet. Say hello to the people in the community. Go and play soccer with the children when they ask you to along your journey. Eventually you will get to the Internet, it will still be there. Pick up some bowfruit or a FanMilk with a Pineapple Fanta along the way. So it takes 15 min to log onto your email once you finally get to Emerson. You aren't going to get any extra points at the end of the day for squishing as much as humanly possible into one day. So every moment of everyday isn't planned out for you. So your plans fell though. C'est la vie! It's only an opportunity to go on another adventure.

Back here I have begun to fill up my day planner, I have started to get into the mode where every day needs to be planned at least a week in advance. I gotta be here at one time and then right after I have to leave for this and be there by that time. I try to remind myself to breathe and think (or for that matter don't)! Take a step back, and don't overwhelm yourself to easily.

That's it. That's how I felt before I left: totally and completely overwhelmed. While I was in Ghana, even if I knew that I had things to accomplish- not a big deal, it will get done. Now- back in Skippack- I am freaking out already about things that I need to complete two weeks from now. I really, REALLY don't like this. It appears to me that in the life style created in the American culture, and in some sense even my own personal culture that I have created- I have not given myself time to appreciate. The little things, the big things, things that seem mundane. It's a new goal of mine.

I've cried 5 out of the past 9 days. Partly because I know that I have closed another chapter in my book. A chapter that was so exciting and new and challenging but great fun all at the same time. And how fleeting it was. I blinked and those 3 weeks with the whole group were gone. Then 4 weeks and Katie left me. Then 5 weeks and I departed Ghana with a heavy heart.

I know that even if..no scratch that...WHEN I go back to Ghana and Hohoe, it won't be the same experience. The same people won't be there with me. But I keep saying to myself that if I could have those feelings and experiences all the time, I would never know how to fully appreciate them. I am grateful to the universe for giving me everything that was encompassed in the planning of and the adventures during my trip to Africa.

Okay make that now 6 out of the past 9 days since I have been home. As I re-read that paragraph, I could not help but shed another tear (or 10). I really did feel like I had a sense of my purpose while in Hohoe. I felt needed and loved (loved not because I had to be, not because I was family) but because they genuinely cared for me. They were grateful for my contribution to their lives. I felt like I knew why I was there. I grew to love the people and the town, the culture and music- and yes, even the goats. Worse yet, I have no one to sympathize with here at home. Every one who could sympathize with me either lives in California, or Canada, or Seattle, or Florida, or Wales. A pleasant phone call is comforting but not enough.
No matter how much I try to tell to my loved ones here at home, no matter how much they have followed my blog, what I gained from being over there and what I experienced first hand is unexplainable. And because of that I feel alone again.

I feel like I have been thrown back in the deep end and I am just treading water again.

Monday, August 17, 2009

Akpe ka ka ka

So it's official. I am no longer in Africa- I have departed Accra and Ghana with a heavy heart and longing to return. It's a terribly long journey. I am feeling like if I can't be in Hohoe, I just want to be in Skippack. I am looking forward to a few modern conveniences- a HOT shower, a flushing toilet- a washing machine- air conditioning. My family and Gracie. I can't wait to give out my gifts and show every one my pictures.

HOWEVER- There is a little caveat. I was allowing the children at the orphanage to take pictures with my camera and the next think I know three weeks of pictures where deleted- erased- gone- nothing but a memory in my head. My heart sank. I cried. Hard. I have pictures from the first week and a half and then the rest are gone. I know a lot of the pictures I can get from my friends who were here with me but there are still many when it was just me who had their camera with them. Or our fabulous adventure up Mountain Paradise. The Wli Falls with the kids from the Orphanage. It's now all just a memory that belongs in my head. Xzibit and Attraction took me back up to Wli Waterfalls so I could get at least those pictures again- and it was an excuse to go back to the falls.

We bought two loaves of bread (which is much sweeter than our bread) and two boxes of juice and packets of whiskey (Whiskey comes in these packets that looks like large ketchup packets- but with whiskey in them). Actually you can get a 'Afri-pak' which is three packets in one box -gin-whiskey-vodka. You know you've hit an all time low when you start drinking booze out of plastic bags! BUT it's the norm here. Everything is eaten/drank out of plastic bags- even water.

I do digress.

So juice- whiskey- and bread was our picnic for the hike back up to the falls.
Good news is I was brave enough this time to go completely underneath the
Falls. No I did not die. I'm pretty sure I steered clear of all parasites- especially the brain eating kind. And I got to pick from Cacao and eat them right off the tree. The seeds themselves are VERY bitter but the sugary white meat substance around the seeds are yummy. And then there are these other berries that are amazing that I picked in the jungle and ate. (I am going to spell there name phonetically because there is no way I know how to write it in Ewe. Basically it sounds like you are chewing on your tongue). They are called angya berries. They are small like blueberries but they grow in bunches like grapes do. They are small and pink and you pop out the seed in the middle and suck on it. It is sooo sweet and locals use it to sweeten their coffee and tea and use it in their cooking because sugar cane is so expensive.


This past Friday was very hard on me. I had to say goodbye to the children at the Orphanage. And the worse part is they sing to you and come up and hug you and present you with a certificate of appreciation. The teacher said some beautiful things about me. Then the children started to sing 'Lean On Me'. Well that was the trigger. Big 'Mansa' crocodile tears came streaming out of my face. Then they began to one by one come up and hug me and tell me 'thank you' personally. Well the tears came even harder. My pictures from that day are just superb of me. Blotchy red face- no makeup left to speak of. Little Mansa and Yayra and Olivia, Cynthia, Abraham and Daniel, Papaa and Sara- All the children in my class gave me hugs as if I was Santa Claus and just gave them everything they wanted. Promise drummed for me at my request. I did take video it. It fills my heart with such joy to see him play. I talked to Sister Lindy about him and found out more information about his background, which only makes me love him even more. At the very end, when my van showed up to take me away from the Orphanage for the last time Promise threw his arms around me. He told me he loved me and that he was so happy that I was in his life. Just when I thought I had no more tears- the water works came. That sobbing where you have to gasp to catch your breath. When I went to let go of him- he did not let go of me. (You are not supposed to- but) Being who I am, I gave him a million kisses and hugs and made him promise me to be safe and to take care of himself as well as look out for the younger kids. Tears weld up in his eyes and he threw himself around my waist again. Dela had to lay on the horn of the van to make me let go of him. I got into the van- barely- and when I looked back, the kids were all standing against the fence waving and there was Promise, running after the van, waving good-bye.
Whooh.

Friday night was amazing though. The newbies took me out for my 'Goodbye Party' which always go too fast and everyone danced like no one watches and drinks palm wine to the point you're slipping in the mud trying to find your way back to home base. Tanoa Gardens to Malezia to Ghana 50. And I didn't have to pay for one drink!! The Irish guys came and Carl played his guitar- Xzibit and Jahwill were my dates for the evening and Drew (the newbie from Scotland with the thick accent who is hard to understand sober) had one too many Clubs and Stars (both beers- there one bottle of beer is two of ours. Our beer is considered a mini). So Drew drinks a few with the Irish guys and the next thing you know he's standing in the middle of a bar in Ghana- one of maybe 10 other yevus ('yay-vu' means white person) in the whole bar and starts the speech from Braveheart. A slurred 'boozed' Scot in floral red shorts and riding boots with flaming red hair reciting Braveheart while the Irishmen and Frenchmen encouraged him on. Classic.
The only other thing I could have asked for was my group who came with me to be there. But we had our fun while they were there.

Saturday, John- our cook- who continually has asked me to marry him- taught me how to make Banku with Okra soup and Fufu with Fish soup. I went to the market and bought cassava and corn dough- I hope it stays and I can get the rest of the ingredients at home. I can't wait to make Banku at home. The whole staff and I shared it for lunch and they said I did an excellent job!

The rest of the weekend I hung out with Xzibit and Jahwill. They really took such great care of me. My big brothers in town. The people in Ghana will often call their cousins or friends brothers and sisters. So you really never know the exact relation to each other. But I got to meet Xzibit's real brothers and sister and then his cousins from Accra. They were in this weekend so we all went out for dinner. His one cousin 'Brother Peter' is the head of the Feley Family. He is the one who speaks for the family and makes all major decisions.

I had the most interesting conversation with him. He explained that he was traveling through Liberia when the war broke out and he told me of his horrifying ordeals he had to go through to escape with his life. It took him 3 months to cross into Cote de Ivory and out of the 60+ people he started out with only 19 made it back into Ghana. I had become so comfortable in Hohoe- very little crime. Maybe a few chickens stolen here or there but everyone in town was peaceful and happy to just be alive. I had not thought about how just a few hundred miles away genocide and crimes against humanity are still going on. It was a reality check that I needed. Ghanaians are very proud of their history. There are signs all over for 50 years of peace and making progress in Africa.
I apparently impressed Brother Peter very much. Xzibit said that he couldn't stop talking about me. He called me Sister or Sister Tara all night. I love it. We talked about the whole sister/brother thing and he explained it's because we really are all apart of one global family. We should treat each other like family- talk about conflicts rather than act violently or speak ill about each other. It's an interesting concept and it makes sense. I too began to call everyone brother and sister. And along with my Ewe name Delali-Abena (shortened to Dela) I truly feel like an older southern black woman.

So this is what I thought about while on the airplane. Here I sit at the end of my journey $300 poorer but so much richer in spirit, experience and love. Who ever could have guessed that in 5 short weeks that I could fall in love (a few times), find friends for life and be welcomes into a community and culture completely foreign to me. The things that I have experienced, the places I've seen and the people that I have met are colorful caricatures, amazing stories and surreal illustrations in my book of life. These past weeks have flown by and left me wanting more and simultaneously make me realize how fortunate I am and to appreciate the simple things in life. Those little moments with friends, food in your belly, breath in your lungs, your ability to dance and most importantly the people who love you.
The expression of love has become so apparent since I have been here. The human need of love- the physical and spiritual need to know and to feel love. The children at the orphanage have taught me in particular the appreciation of the little gifts in life. How a hug and a kiss can turn a whole day around. To have some one who cares for you - not because they have to - but because you have chosen to be apart of each others lives. I don't know what magic there is when humans make physical contact with each other. Holding hands, a warm embrace, a kiss, a pat on the shoulder. They are gifts between friends- unspoken bonds that are strengthened. It is incredible to see how it crosses cultures and continents. My last day at the orphanage- the children were instructed to dance and sing as much as they could for their morning assembly. Some of the children were less than enthusiastic about it and so the teacher told this story: 'Down the road at the hospital, sickly people are laying in their hospital beds wishing they could get up and walk- let alone dance. If you pass by the graveyard during a full moon you can hear the dead say 'We were like you once.' And when you pass by it again they will say 'One day you will be like us!' So while you still can- dance and sing and use your legs because you still can. You have your health and you have a song in your heart!' And the kids listened. They used their whole bodies and danced as if they would lose the use of the bodies if they ever stopped. Even my little ones danced and smiled.

It will take time to adjust back into the American way of doing things. Rush rush. get it done. Work, errands, practice, groceries, exhaustion, then bed. I am really going to try to bring the things I have come to learn and enjoy about the Ghanaian culture back with me.
Even here in London at the Heathrow airport- the Internet works faster. It doesn't take 15 min to log on to your email address. I forgot how fast the Internet is supposed to work. And business men and woman are talking on their cell phones, faxing documents, looking at the stocks and trying not to miss their connecting flights. Already I am a little annoyed with them- but that is my burden. I've only been away for 5 1/2 weeks and I feel that my personal culture has shifted. I am sure it will shift back just as easily as it did while I was in Ghana.
As I read this is sounds as if I am speaking ill of the American culture. I don't mean for it to sound like that at all. Believe me- I have found major problems with the Ghanaian culture too- but I just want to bring back and fix my personal culture at home. Spending 5 weeks abroad has defiantly made me realize how I am so fortunate to live in the culture and society and country that I do.

That being said: I have not lost my Wanderlust. I will return their one day.
There are many points in my trip, however, that I thought to myself, 'Self- what the hell made you think that you could go to Africa alone for five weeks?? How did you get here. Holy cow- I'm in Africa!!'

OH and the grand total for marriage proposals comes to ten. TEN! Although really only half of those were truly heartfelt. 5 of them came from Ameobos looking for a Yevu to marry.

Akpe ka ka ka ka ka to everyone who welcomed me in Ghana with open hearts and open arms. You will never be forgotten. You have taught me so much more than I ever could have taught you. Much love.


And thank you to everyone back at home for the comments and love. I look forward to reading them just as much as you look for new posts from me.

Haley and Lori- I could not get any bowfruit to bring home. It was Sunday when I left and everyone goes to Church all weekend. :( I'll see if I can get a recipe for them. But drinks and story time is a must. My friends in town made me some cd's with local music on them- DANCE PARTY. I can teach you how to high life dance. Prepare to laugh.

Christie: I have a few children in mind that I have wanted to bring home. Let me know the specifics of what you are looking for and I can get your a beautiful Ghanaian child who needs a loving family and home.

Jennifer: No, I don't want to come home yet. Yes my mother will probibly give it to you for saying that- but the truth is I am out of money and I have to come back to reality for a time being. Plus I miss the kids at home too.

Don and John: This all wouldn't have been possible with out you. Akpe ka ka ka (which means thank you soooooooooo much. I can't wait to share my adventure in person with you. And I will show you how to make banku with okra soup! And no recipes for grasscutter whop slop. Apparently they don't know that whop slop is!!



BE HOME SOON!

Monday, August 10, 2009

Mountain Mamma

This past week has been filled with a roller coaster of emotions. Last week was Katie's last week and it just flew by- which makes me realize just how fast these next few days will actually go. But we made the most of the week for sure. The new volunteers came in last Friday and I really hadn't gotten a change to get to know them because they were busy with their orientations and first week shindigs.

I've really become close with a boy at the Orphanage named Promise. He's 12 years old and he has been there for almost 9 years. He's this beautiful boy with a beautiful soul. He's so kind and he is one of the oldest boys so a lot of the chores and responsibilities fall onto him. He is the one who drums in the morning during assembly and he is always making sure the little kids are doing well. He's so smart and I fear that he won't have the opportunity to succeed in Ghana. Every morning I hug and kiss him and you can tell that he looks forward to it. He just holds on tight. He's an amazing soccer player but is so humble about it. He steals my heart. I want to take him home.




It wouldn't be as bad as taking home Abraham and his brother Daniel who I have also fallen in love with. Abraham is on the left and Daniel is on the right. <3


And success with Mansa this week. She's gone potty for me in the bathroom and hasn't wet her pants in three days!


Then Katie almost missed her flight because she thought she was flying out on Saturday - turns out she was leaving on Friday. So we had to call our friends in town and try to move our "Good Bye Katie Party" to Thursday. Well it ended up no one could really do it since they all work on Friday so instead Jahwill, Katie, Mawuli and I went to Mountain Paradise on Thursday afternoon after placement. Jahwill said he knew of this hidden waterfall up in the mountain that he wanted to take Katie and I to.
Before we could get onto the mountain we had to stop and greet the village chief. He then presented us with avocados- huge ones- like more like the size of a squash-sized avocados and one for each of us. As we are driving up the Mountain Paradise Jahwill yells "STOP. Right Here!!" Katie and I look at each other and think "Where? We are in the bush!" So we pull over and park our car basically in the bush and low and behold there was a little path- so the four of us trumped through the jungle for 20 mins until we came to the most incredible waterfall. It felt like I had stepped into National Geographic (WAIT FOR PICTURES!) Although truth be told my pictures don't do any of this justice. We sat there for a while and enjoyed the sight and then Jahwill and Mawuli said that we should see the top of the mountain. It was the second highest in Ghana and since we already climbed the highest one (Mt. Afajato) that we needed to see Mountain Paradise from the top. So the four of us piled back into the car (which is like a Mazda- automatic- and definitely NOT a four wheel drive vehicle) and started to drive up the mountain.
Picture a Land Rover Commercial without a Land Rover. It was hysterical. Finally FINALLY we get up to the top to the village of Biakba and this little hotel on the cliff of the mountain. We were literally above the rain clouds. As we stood on the edge we looked over the "Lioness". The mountain opposite from us was lush and green except for the very top which was grey rock that resembled a lioness laying down. There was a large tree next to the hotel that also has two tire swings on it. So the four of us sat and talked and enjoyed the most amazing place we had ever been. It was truly out of a novel. Everything smelled of fresh rain and tropical flowers. There were turtles and lizards running around and colorful birds singing sweet songs. Traditional music playing from the bar. I could not have written it better if I tried. It was a moment. Then Jahwill took us to his friend's house/ village which was a rasta village. Whole rasta family. On top of this beautiful mountain in Africa. They were so warm and welcoming and offered us home made palm wine - which smells like whiskey but tastes like tequila. Not my drink of choice. We thanked them for letting us enjoy them and they gave us a rasta blessing.
We ate the rest of the avocado with a loaf of fresh bread we bought at the village on top of the mountain.

It was one of those days that I will NEVER forget. I may go as far as to say it was one of the best in my whole life.


This past Saturday I went to Wli Waterfalls with the children from the orphanage. It was nice to be able to be with them and enjoy them with out having to keep them in line and teach them. I carried Mansa on my back the entire way up to the waterfalls and all the way back down. It was so nice to see the kids happy and playing and enjoying themselves. Some other group had brought drums and so there was music and dancing and drumming and even Promise took center stage for a while. It pleases me so to hear and to watch him play. I danced with the kids and their giggles brought such a sense of peace into my heart. They were freezing when they came out of the water and so I wrapped their towels around them and tried to warm them up. You can tell these children just crave human touch. In the beginning I tried not to be as warm and fuzzy as I normally am just because I was trying to feel out the culture but I can't help it any more. I hug and kiss all of them.



I'll try to post one more time before I leave Hohoe. I love all of your comments and well wishes. I can't wait to see you all and tell you more of the stories in person.

I get home again on August 17th in the afternoon. Much love from Hohoe.

Saturday, August 1, 2009

It's so hard to say good-bye

So yesterday all but Katie and I left Hohoe. Katie bawled her eyes out. It's taken me a little longer to process it I think because I have another two weeks here. We all sat around the table for lunch and had a moment. We all arrived on the same date (except for Libby and Aidan- they'd been here for 12 weeks). Our personalities went so well together- How I'll miss the nights of Jodi (my Seattle roomie) and David (the Welsh-man (or Wailian as Amanda Put it) playing Egyptian Rat Screw and me trying to decipher what David was trying to say to me. The crazy places and locals that Aidan and Libby introduced me to. Dani plotting to steal Kitty (the kitten who has found its way into our home base and hearts). Ellen and my dance parties in the office to "African Lady" and hours trying to find "The Wifey Song". A tear has been shed for them but at the same time I am glad that we were able to have those experiences together. If it wasn't a fleeting chapter in out book of life- we would never be able to appreciate them.

Katie and I have been dubbed "Queen Mothers" by the staff and Libby - the former queen mother. It is a title reserved for the one who has been there the longest.

I am glad to have Katie and the Staff still here. I think that THAT will be the hardest thing- Leaving Christine and George- The house mom and dad. Joe, Alpha, John and Dela, Xzibit, Atsu, and Jahweel. Those faces who welcome me every morning and night and who have welcomed me into their culture and daily lives- not as an outsider but as a friend.

It is sad to think that my time here is soon coming to an end. The past three weeks have flown by. I have a mere two weeks left. It feels like I have been become settled into the culture and environment and now the real work is going to start- but the reality is that I have one week left and then one week to mentally prepare myself to leave. I want to come back. I have found out through the Irish blokes living at the Hotel Geduld next door to our home base that it cost 10 Cedi a night to stay there and there is much cheaper airfare. So many people come here and stay for much longer than they ever expected. If I had more money- I fear I would do the same.

The relaxed lifestyle- everyone is so friendly- everyone wants to be your friend. I have been proposed to twice! Both times said no. It will be just as hard of an adjustment coming back to the states as it was coming here.

I'm going to church tomorrow. I'll post more about that early next week.

<3

Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Yesterday we hiked Mt. Afajato even though it was soo misty and cloudy that you couldn't see anything at the top. They officially have the craziest looking bugs here you have ever seen.

Today we went to placement in the morning and then we went to the monkey sanctuary about 20 min away. The first encounter with a monkey was unsuccessful. He stole my whole banana. But I ended up being able to feed a few of them. I got some great pictures and I am adding a sacred Mona Monkey to the list of things that I am going to bring home in my suitcase.

Then we had another Ewe lesson. I learned how to ask "what is you name?" and "My name is Abena".

I talked to one of my friends here in town who we affectionately call Xhibit. He is going to take Katie and I to his church on Sunday and let us carry his son Calvin on our backs. I have wanted to put every child I see up on my back and wrap cloth around me and then carry bags of rice on my head. Well at least putting Calvin on my back will come true. He's about 1 1/2 years old. Adorable. And Xzibit is making me a mixed tape/cd of all the great songs that we have been jamming out to here in Hohoe. One of which is the "Wifey Song". LOVE that song.


At the orphanage- it's tough being there. No one really knows whats going on. There is no rhyme or reason for doing things, no science behind what they teach or why. The kids just memorize the songs but don't understand that letters make up words and that you can add and subtract numbers. I have been following this one little boy named Papaa and he so severely has dyslexia and there is no hope or help for him here in Hohoe. The teacher just canes him or smacks him over his head. I was trying to explain what it was but she herself barely understands English.

More later. It's so hot here today. It's been nothing but rainy and cloudy but that only makes it more humid.

<3t

Sunday, July 26, 2009

Adventures in eating Grasscutter

Well- I can tell you now that my heart will be broken when I have to leave the children at the Orphanage. I have already fallen in love. The challenges at the orphanage are much greater than I ever expected. Limited books, I teach in a straw hoofed car port outside. The children in my class range from 2 years old to 10 years old. Half of them don't speak English. They are grossly malnourished. I went early last week to help bathe them and they were skin and bones. It truly is what you see on the Sally Struthers commercials. I was talking to the owner of the orphanage and she said that it cost them 20 pesowas per day to stay at the orphanage( 1.41 cedi = $1USD and a pesowas (sounds like peso ace) is like their cents). There is always a smell of urine in their rooms and they live out of draw string bags. It's so upsetting. They just love with you hold them and pay attention to them. You can tell they lack human touch and love. More on them later.

In terms of the cuisine. I have experience three very Ghanaian meals. Baku looks like mashed potatoes but has the consistency of play dough. It's fermented corn/cassava dough mixed proportionally and cooked in hot water into a smooth whitish consistent paste. Served with okra stew and a pepper sauce with fish. Everyone eats with their hands and from the same bowl. Strange. And then I also had Grasscutter. Grasscutter is a giant rodent but looks like a cross between a rat and a possum. Dela who is one of our drivers/house dad came home with it in a bag. He had just killed it. He proceeded to take it out of the bag, lay it on the counter with it bleeding from the mouth and put on a pot of water like it was nothing. Once the pot was boiling, he put the whole grasscutter in a big pot and poured the boiling water over it so he could then proceed to shave it with a cutlass. We looked on in horror and the poor dead animal was being mercilessly shaven in a pot of hot water. Joe and Dela explained it was good meat and that we were going to eat it for lunch the next day. The next day we ate grasscutter with pasta and red sauce. I took a small bite but I just kept having this mental image of it bleeding from the mouth and being shaven by Joe. I'm glad I did it but never again. HOWEVER- the ladies on the streets sell bowfruit (sp?) off of their heads. It is this amazing little ball of dough that kind of tastes like a doughnut but it's bigger, fluffier and not as sweet. God will I miss them when I leave. They are 7 for 1 Cedi! YUM

Sorry Don and John- I am not bringing back a recipe for grasscutter. I am, however, trying to get one for banku. And maybe bowfruit.

Christie- Just tell me if you want a boy or girl from the orphanage and I can pick one up for you. The family who just left started the processes for adopting the one little boy. I'm already to help you.

Son John- You are more than welcome to share this blog with your friend. I would love to hear his feed back.

Can't wait to show pictures when I get home. Tomorrow we are hiking Mt. Afajato at sunrise. Should be amazing. <3

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Week One and Weekend in Cape Coast

Well Week One has been terribly interesting. Started Placement, went to the Wli Waterfalls (amazing) although I'm convinced I have a parasite in my brain thanks to my grandmother. I had my first Ewe lessons, African Dancing and drumming and I petted a goat.

I started out at St. Francis working with three children named Freeman, Zackaria and Anita. I was working with the reading program and one on one tutoring. They are out 10 years old and have varying degrees of knowledge and ability to speak English. My Ewe is lacking so it really is comical. But free time is a blast. The kids here do this dance and chant that goes "Bom Bom Bomba Leeka..." and then they "Shakey Shakey Shake Your Body". It's a must see. So cute.

As much as I love St. Francis and especially Anita, I am starting to go to the Christian Orphanage tomorrow. I will get there around 6:15am to help bathe 25 children and then feed them breakfast and off to their lessons. I have a lot of research I have to do for my intern program and I won't be able to do it at St. Francis.

SIDE NOTE: Goats and chickens run wild here, like squirrels and birds back at home. One goat just stood at the door and thought about coming into the internet cafe.


Well I have been officially welcomes in Africa. I think I could not have make up a better story if I tried---

17 of us started out renting 2 vans to bring us on an 8 hour journey to Cape Coast. Then we met three Spaniards at the internet cafe (Alex, Ramon and Pablo) who all work at the Christian Orphanage with Momma B and invited them along on our weekend adventure. Before we left, my friend Rachel came down with Malaria and could not come and ended up leaving home to Canada. Thursday afternoon, I am talking to my mother and my cell phone breaks. Won't work- No alarm, no buttons. Dead. Gret Start.

So Friday comes along, 20 of us eat a quick lunch and we leave our home base at 1pm. The Bank here in town was closed early because they had a system failure and I was completely out of cash (along with 10 other people). The two security guards who flanked the door with AK47's told up there was another Barclay's bank about 3 1/2 hours away in another little town but they closed at 4pm. We tried to make a mad dash in our vans down there in town but didn't make it. However their ATM worked but for the Brit (David) and the three Spaniards- they couldn't exchange their money.

12 hours later 14 of us arrive outside of Cape Coast. Two people ended up passing out while in the vans and came down with Malaria and or Typhoid Fever- a 4 hour detour to the hospital and then the Holiday Inn that Obama stayed at while he was here, then the Spaniards took a trip to the black market to exchange money.

One Africa- amazing huts with thatched roofs on the rocky cost of Southern Ghana. It's run by a guy who is originally from New York- very Rastafarian. Each of the huts were themed- mine was the Harriet Tubman room. Jody, David and I shared that hut. We had all bought sangria and beer and planned on staying up and enjoying each other company and the scenery however buy the time we got there all we wanted to do was pass out. 8am Breakfast was toast and pineapple and instant coffee.

We left that morning thinking we were going to do the canopy walk, the slave fort the crocodile farm and the bead factory. Off we left for Kakum and the Canopy walk. Hundreds of people swarming everywhere. a 45 min hike with 7 stops along the way brought us up 12 stories up into the Canopy of the Kakum Rain forest. Oh and I got my first official injury- stubbed my toe god awful. I had to wrap it in a tissue- took a picture of it. The canopy walk scared the pants off of me. The Spaniards were rocking this skinny rope bridge- 12 stories up in the air!!! I survived it (will show you amazing pictures) and decided to eat lunch there at the park. 3 hours later only 10 of the 14 ended up getting our lunches. My burger was maybe 2oz and topped with laughing cow cheese spread and placed in between two sliced of white bread. We left then for St. Georges at Elmina Castle which is one of the oldest slave forts. Thousands of people crowding the streets and hundreds of boats in the ocean fishing and the people bombarding the vans with necklaces and food to buy. A little girl with a baby on her back and fabric on her head and carrying a tray of jewelery dodging in and out of traffic. I've never seen anything like it. (Again insert pictures here).

We literally could not get out of our vans because the people were crowding our vans with things to sell. I got about 5 pictures of the outside of the fort before my full battery camera mysteriously died. We toured the fort and even into the dungeons where the slaves where held, beaten, sold and rapped. Very strange feelings in there.

I was glad I went there. There was one point went an African man said to us - "Don't you feel sorry for what your forefathers did to my forefathers?" I didn't know how to react to it. Very awkward. Momma B just looked at him and said "I'm Native American!"

By that point another girl was passing out (you guessed it Malaria and or Typhoid Fever). So we never ended up going to anything else because by that point it was dinner time and we decided to go to the hotel to hot showers and a good meal.

Needless to say when we got to Coconut Grove they had a "system failure" and lost all our reservations. 2 rooms was all they had left at $179 each so Katey, Dani and I decided to steal a van and go back to One Africa. So the three of us ate dinner of pizza and plantanes on the rocky shores by candle light.

The next morning we all met up, on van went to the hospital and the other back to Hohoe. I left on the one to Hohoe. In the van were 4 Americans, 3 Spaniards, a Brit and a Ghanian driver. 3 hour left in our ride our driver pulls over and says he wants to buy something. The next thing you know a boy runs over holding a chicken with its feet tied together. The driver and the boy exchange harsh words and the boy walks away. He tells us the chicken is too expensive. The Spaniards pitch in some money and the driver calls the boy and chicken back over. All of a sudden the live chicken comes through the window and lands in between Ramon and Alex. Katey yells "We've turned our van into a Freakin Tro Tro!!" Hence the chickens name was Tro Tro. So for three hours on the way back to Hohoe, Ramon and Alex babysat Tro Tro as he went to the bathroom and clucked and flapped. Hysterical.


I'm doing batiking lessons later tomorrow and more Ewe lessons. I am also getting some shirts made because I had bought the most amazing fabric. Pictures Later.


Miss you all.